Today I got up early (05.30) to climb up to 4773 meter. Earlier the plan was to climb the Tsergo ri (4984 meter) but our guide told me that the view from Kyanjin ri is much better, since you have a good sight on the Langtang Lirung Glacier and mountain (the highest mountain in Langtang, 7227 meter). So we started at 06.00, a little foggy but hopefully that will change when we reach the top.
The climb to the first summit (about 4300 meter) is steep and heavy. I have to take a rest many times, just to keep breathing. Luckily there is no sign of altitude sickness at all. Only thing is that my guide has problems with his throat, and halfway he tells me I can go first, he will follow. So a bit later I reach the first summit on my own, an amazing feeling and fabulous panorama. There are no clowds that block the view so we are very lucky. After making a lot of photos and video’s and enjoying the fabulous view on Langtang Lirung, we went to the next and final summit, Kyanjin Ri.
We walk across a ridge to reach the next top, and on the way we see some Yaks grazing at this height. The big animals look like a big carpet, moving around chewing slowly. At least now I know where the cheese came from.
I reach the summit of Kyanjin Ri very slowly. At this height it is very important to take it easy and after a few steps you have to rest for a moment. Still there is no sign of a big headache, vomiting or walking like a drunken guy, so I go on. On the final altitude of 4773 meter I’m litterally at the maximum of my journey. Again the view is fabulous, though there are more clowds than at the first summit. If I look back I can see the first summit downhill, far away from here. The view on the Langtang Lirung mountain and glacier is also great, as promised. Unfortunately it doesn’t look like it is possible to post any pictures on the internet next weeks, otherwise I could show you the view.
The way down we speed up a little. I don’t know why but at least it seems good to reduce the risk on altitude sickness. However almost immediately after our descent I feel a small headache coming up. It is not very serious at first I think, but when I’m back in Kyanjin one hour later it is still there. We hire two horses that afternoon but the mood is not really there for me. After two hours horseriding on very difficult tracks (unbelievable a horse can do that, crossing a wild river with someone on his back and on nothing more than loose rocks) my headache is worse, and I go to bed. Here I lay down for the rest of the day, in almost every position to reduce my headache, but it doesn’t help. At least I made it to the top today!

3 Thoughts on “Day 6: Kyanjin Ri!

  1. Willemien Schippers on 06/08/2010 at 18:32 said:

    Hoi Sander en Fenna,
    nou Sander petje af! Knap dat je de top gehaald hebt.
    Het lijkt me allemaal inderdaad heel mooi om mee te maken maar je hoofdpijn is natuurlijk minder. Hopelijk kunnen jullie samen nog veel mooie dingen bezichtigen en ervaringen opdoen.
    Groetjes Willemien

  2. Leo on 06/08/2010 at 19:30 said:

    Hi Sander,
    Really great and fabulous that you made it all the way to the summit of Kyanjin ri!! (nearly Mont Blanc height). Thought you were struck and cut down by altitude sickness just before you had the opportunity to climb. Fortunately for you I misunderstood! (… or am I improperly blending cause and result here?). Fantastic that you were able to enjoy some great views in higher Langtang area!!
    Pitty of your upcoming high altitude headache afterwards, almost with certainty the beginning of acute mountain sickness, causing oedema of the brain (attended with increasing pressure inside your skull due to swelling of braintissue). Alltogether not an undangerous condition, that may eventually flow into irreversible damage of braintissue en loss of function! Only remedy: immediate moving to lower altitudes! Found recommendations of gaining height in mountain area: between 3000 and 4500 m: maximum 300 m per day, above 4500 m: maximum 150 m per day!! Maybe you were lucky to be able to descend to Kathmandu so quickly.
    Notwithstanding this all, it is and will remain a great performance and achievement! Congratulations, son! Cannot wait to admire your pictures.

    PS. Must have been really troublesome though to base-camp-Fenna for a moment, hope it didn’t all bring about traumatic worries to her! (invite her to a palatable dinner in small return!)

  3. luis on 17/04/2011 at 21:45 said:

    Hello Sander,

    Read your blog about Day 6: Kyanjin Ri!, and sounds very exciting. First of all congratulations for your accomplishment… Second I am in the process of organizing my trip to Nepal and plan climbing the same peak plus Tsergo Ri. I am looking for information about how long you stayed in Kyinajin Gompa and did you climb any other peak other than Kyianjin Ri? Was the trail easy to find it? Thanks

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